May 03

Flat.

I hereby declare Summer in full effect. All elements are present: turtles, lice, morning haze, and last and defnitely least, periods of seemingly eternal flatness.

Textured flatness underneath an overcast sky.

Cold front on its way through should provide some relief from the rain, and also, I'm hoping from the flatness. Presently, flat and still.

Man, was that a good time last night. Sure felt great to sleep in this morning. Well, hope it was worth it, cause you missed it bro. Waist high rare May swell early on. Very fun. Up to chest high on sets every 20 minutes or so. Around 8:30 N wind clicked on and blew it to pieces. Still rideable, but a different animal all tother (more like road kill). No lice.

Knee to thigh high swell still rolling in but muddled up and barely visible under unrideable chop. Defintely, not worth blowing off Mom for (unless she's a late sleeper ... well, even then, probably not). Wind has died and there is some hope that it could clean up for this afternoon. So, why not take mom to the beach? Today is one of those priority days, where surf doesn't have it, and trust me, you're not missing much.

2:30pm update: Ditch mom, you've paid your tribute, and go surf. The swell has returned! Breaking on the outside at my place, and looking fun on the inside. Thigh to waist high.

Light south breeze. Sunny and unrideable.

Nothing happening here. Small chance of swell upcoast today.

It's rideable! Thigh high, and may hold for a few days.

One of those mornings where it looks barely rideable .... until you paddle out. Consistent knee to thigh chop. Very rideable and pretty darn fun. Pics by L.A.

Sea lice quotent: feeling a little itchy ...

Flat and looking to stay that way for a while.

Maybe knee high dribblage. E wind 5 to 10 mph.

Maybe clean rideable leftovers early on. Not looking so hot now, but should be rideable this afternoon through Thursday.

I would call it fun knee to thigh high chop, if it wasn't for the locals. They were in force today and are sure to stick around for the next couple months. I'm talking about sealice. They weren't fooling around and I'm sure to be paying the price tonight. My stomach is one big red welt. Was the surf worth the price? Right now, I'd say yes. Ask me again at 3am, and you might get a different answer ...

Knee to thigh plus and more consistent than yesterday. Wind has died and what little swell that is coming in is sure to suffer the same fate in a few hours. High tide is not helping it out, but there's still a little to be found. So, get it while you can. You will get lice, so be prepared. I'm covered ....